There are a lot of painting guides available, from written ones to videos. Still, every painter has their own way of doing things, and I’m no different.
But let’s get in medias res, with two models from Wizkids.
First step is the base-coat. I’m usually using a color that is slightly lighter than the tone I want to achieve. As you can see, I’m using with a LED-magnifying glass to make out the small details.
Usually, I’m working my way bottom-up, meaning I start with skin, painting layer by layer until I reach the last details, usually something like belts and buckles.
After the base-coat, I turn to shades and washes. As I’m using Army Painter shades, I use different colored shades for different parts of the model. Always keep in mind, that you are adding color to another, so you can get very different effects by combining colors.
When the shades have dried, I begin with painting the eyes first. Eyes are probably the most difficult thing to paint, so there are quite a lot of differing methods.
Mine is rather simple – but needs a very small brush with a sharp tip. I’m using a W&N 000 brush for this (and most of the following steps).
First, I the eyes white. Depending on the model, this may be just a single spot, or a real eyeball.
On this white eyeball, I paint a black pupil. Try to stipple the pupil right beneath the eyeridge.
Sometimes, this is all it takes, but sometimes it just won’t look right. By beginning to highlight the face, small errors can easily be corrected.
If it’s too bad an error, you’ll have to paint over the eye and start again.
Sometimes a wash with the shade you used for the skintone helps blend the eyes into the face.
Now, it’s time for the highlights – if I used them at all. I’m not a big fan of the accagerated comic-style with popping highlights, so sometimes the shades have already done the trick.
Usually, I start with the base colour, lighting it with white or a sandy-tone, depending on the color. One or two layers usually are enough.
The final step is drybrushing. I’m using a makeup-brush for this, as it produces a fine layer and can be easily controlled.
After that, I fix my work by applying two coats of varnish, first a glossy one, than AP AntiShine.
Finally, the models are based, using different techniques. In this case, I used Vallejo Model Earth and some Gamer’s Grass tufts.
Finally, the models are ready for the gaming table.